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Maybe Nematodes are Nibbling at Your Roots?
by Michelle Le Strange, UC Master Gardener Advisor

If plants in your garden just don't seem to grow as big or as robust as they should, then perhaps your soil is infested with nematodes. Nematodes are tiny (microscopic) eel-like roundworms, which live in soil and feed on plant roots. These nearly invisible pests create an increasingly serious problem each season in many home gardens. Unfortunately many plants are susceptible including vegetables, flowers, trees, vines, berries, shrubs, and even weeds.

PLANT DAMAGE
Plants affected by nematodes may be off-color or stunted in growth. In hot weather, infected plants often wilt or die because damaged root systems cannot supply enough water. Annual and herbaceous perennial plants may be killed by nematodes, but woody plants rarely are. Injury to woody plants is less obvious and more difficult to diagnose. Infested fruit and nut trees have reduced growth and yields. Ornamental shrubs and trees have reduced growth and branch tip dieback, and may defoliate earlier than normal.

NEMATODE FACTS
Root knot nematode is the most troublesome species in the garden. It forms small knots/galls on young feeder roots, causing plants to lose vigor and appear stunted. These swellings do not rub off and should not be confused with the beneficial nitrogen-fixing nodules on the roots of legume plants.

You can find nematodes in all soils, but population numbers vary greatly from place to place even in the same garden. Root knot nematodes cause most damage in sandier soils. They are not active in cold winter months and overwinter as eggs. Nematode numbers increase rapidly, if susceptible plants are grown repeatedly, especially during summer months. Summer irrigation encourages nematode activity. When nematodes become too numerous in one spot, then many annual plants fail.

KEEP NEMATODES OUT
Although nematodes occur naturally in many soils, people increase the problem. We carry nematodes from one area to another on garden implements, plants, shoes caked with mud from infested soil, or by bringing in infested topsoil.

PLANT RESISTANT VARIETIES
One great way to manage nematodes is to plant vegetable and flower varieties and fruit tree rootstocks that are resistant or tolerant of nematode injury. Varieties with VFN after their name are resistant to most root knot nematodes, as are 'Nemaguard' rootstock used for stone fruit and almond trees, and 'Harmony' and 'Freedom' rootstock used for grapes. Citrus trees growing on 'Troyer' and 'Trifoliate' rootstocks are resistant to the citrus nematode.

FALLOW
Fallowing is the practice of leaving the soil bare for a period of time. Fallowing for 1 year will lower nematode populations enough to successfully grow a susceptible annual crop. Two years of fallow will lower nematode numbers even further. When fallowing, keep the soil moist to encourage egg hatch and control weeds on which nematodes may survive. Eggs will hatch but the nematodes will die if there is nothing to feed on. Try dividing the garden into thirds and fallow one-third every year (or two) on a rotating basis.

SOIL SOLARIZATION
Like fallowing, solarization temporarily reduces nematode populations, but in less time. For effective solarization, moisten the soil and cover it with a clear plastic tarp. The tarp must be left in place for 4 to 6 weeks during the hottest part of summer. Sustained temperatures above 125 °F will kill eggs and adult nematodes.

ORGANIC SOIL AMENDMENTS
Adding peat moss, manure, compost, and humus to soils greatly improves the water holding capacity of the soil and provides some food for nematodes, which help dilute the effects of nematode damage to plant roots.

ABOUT MARIGOLDS
Marigolds have been proven to reduce nematode populations, but all marigolds are NOT alike. Some marigold varieties suppress nematode activity and other marigold varieties foster nematode activity. French marigolds 'Nemagold', 'Petite Blanc', 'Queen Sophia', and 'Tangerine' are effective. Signet marigolds (Tagetes signata or tennifolia) should be avoided. No marigold works well against the northern root knot nematode.

The effect of marigolds is greatest when grown as a solid planting (like a lawn) for an entire season. When planted with annual vegetables with a row here and a row there, nematode control is not good. Marigold plantings should be mowed before flowers open, so their seed does not become a weed in next year's garden.

PESTICIDES
There are currently no chemical nematicides or soil fumigants available to home gardeners for nematode control in backyard gardens and home landscapes. Visit www.ipm.ucdavis for more information about nematodes.

February 6, 2003

 

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Revised: February 5, 2003