Lawn
Insects
by Michelle
Le Strange, UC Master Gardener Advisor
Contrary to popular belief, insects are not a common cause of
residential lawn damage in California, yet lawn care products
containing broad-spectrum insecticides are widely purchased and
used by many homeowners. Unnecessary use of an insecticide on
a lawn is not harmful to the lawn, however it does disturb the
beneficial insects and can pollute the environment. Sprinkler
runoff moves the insecticide off the lawn and into street gutters.
In the last few years common residential insecticides have been
detected in city storm drains at levels where they contaminate
waterways and kill desirable insects. As a result some common
insecticides will have harsher restrictions for use and will be
less available to the homeowner.
Most gardens contain far more types of good bugs than pest insects.
These beneficial insects kill pest insects and are called natural
enemies. In any pest management or plant care program, it is important
to encourage these natural enemies by avoiding pesticides that
kill them. One rule should be to "never apply an insecticide
unless a damaging level of an insect pest is confirmed".
Insecticides are only effective if applied at the right time and
in the right manner. Also, the most effective treatment for one
pest may not work on another.
Poor lawn care, especially improper watering and planting inappropriate
grass species, are more likely causes of unhealthy or dying lawns.
Diseases, excess fertilizer, and dog urine also produces lawn
damage resembling that of insects. Confirm presence of pest insects
before applying an insecticide.
How do you know if insects are causing damage? For grubs (chafer
and June beetle larvae) and billbug larvae, dig around roots and
look for the thick white worms. For other insects perform the
following drench test. Find an area in the lawn where insect damage
is suspected. Mark off about a square yard putting the edge of
damage in the middle of the square. With a watering can uniformly
apply one gallon of water containing an ounce or two of a liquid
dish detergent (or a tablespoon of pyrethrin, diazinon, or dursban)
over the designated turf area. Wait 510 minutes and watch
for insects. The soap (or insecticide) irritates the insects and
they typically squirm to the surface.
If you have St. Augustine grass a very common insect pest to
look for is the southern chinch bug. Other lawns could contain
sod webworms, cutworms, fiery skipper worms, and billbug adults.
Before applying a treatment for foliar or thatch-dwelling pests,
irrigate the lawn well and then treat as soon as the plants dry.
Apply the required amount of insecticide in enough water to thoroughly
wet the grass down to the ground.
For foliage feeders such as the fiery skipper, sod webworm, armyworms,
and cutworms 2-5 gallons of water per 1000 square feet of turf
works well. The bermuda grass mite as well as root feeding pests
like grubs require a greater volume of water to move the pesticide
into the area where the pest is feeding.
Insects that feed in the thatch layer like the southern chinch
bug should have treatments applied in 10-25 gallons of water per
1000 square feet of lawn. Do not water the lawn following a chemical
application until absolutely necessary to prevent wilting. This
will allow the insecticide to remain on the plants for the longest
possible period. Do not apply insecticides when temperatures exceed
90 degrees.
In general, sprays work best when treating foliar lawn pests,
but granular formulations are acceptable for controlling white
grubs, billbugs, chinchbugs, cutworms, skipper larvae, and the
sod webworms. Granules are advantageous when attempting to control
pests residing in or below the thatch layer because they move
past leaf blades and partially penetrate the thatch layer.
Beneficial insects are disrupted by broad-spectrum insecticides
such as pyrethroids, carbamates (sevin), and to a lesser extent,
organophosphates (dursban, diazinon, and orthene). Alternatives
such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) control a narrower range of
organisms, thus preserving naturally occurring beneficial insects.
Bt products are typically inexpensive, but timing is more critical
for control. Since the product breaks down in sunlight, several
applications may be necessary.
Keep your lawn healthy by
- irrigating deeply and infrequently
- doing routine maintenance on sprinkler heads
- applying only 3-6 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft.
per year when fertilizing
- aerating your lawn annually
- removing thatch if it exceeds ½ inch
- cutting only 1/3 to ½ of grass height at each mowing,
and
- keeping lawnmower blades sharp.
Integrated pest management (IPM) uses environmentally sound,
yet effective ways to keep pests from annoying you or damaging
plants. IPM programs combine several pest control methods for
long term prevention and management of pest problems without harming
you, your family or the environment. IPM also reduces pollution
in California waterways. Successful IPM begins with you taking
the time to correctly identify if a pest is causing a real problem.
June 14, 2001