Cut
Flowers
By Jeanne Rose,
UC Master Gardener
Do you enjoy cutting flowers from your garden for your home or to
share with friends? Or perhaps you used to, but they seemed to start
wilting almost as soon as you arranged them, so you don't anymore.
Growing flowers for cutting is a hobby of mine that I really enjoy
and over the years I've learned a few tips that will go a long way
toward prolonging the vase life of cut flowers.
Early morning, before the temperature warms up and the plants have
lost some of their moisture, is the absolute best time for cutting.
If you can't cut your flowers then, the second best time is the evening
after the temperature has dropped. When you go into the garden to
cut your flowers, carry a container of lukewarm water with you. Select
flowers with buds just beginning to open. For spike flowers like gladiolus,
tuberoses or bells of Ireland, only the lowest bud or two should be
open. Liatris is different from other spike flowers; it opens from
the top first. Cut the stems long and put them in the water immediately
without crowding them.
Do your cut roses get "droopy necks" soon after cutting?
Flowers in most arrangements collapse early because they are unable
to obtain enough water to keep them looking crisp and fresh. Stems
are like drinking straws carrying water to the flowers. Here's a tip
to maximize their water capacity. After your flowers are cut and brought
inside, re-cut each stem while holding it under lukewarm water. If
you re-cut without holding them under water, air bubbles can enter
the stems and prevent the flow of water and nutrients to the flowers.
Make sure to use a very sharp knife or
clippers to avoid crushing the stems. Cut at a slight angle to expose
more surface area to absorb moisture. Always strip any leaves that
would be below the water level in your vase to prevent bacteria from
growing and souring the water.
Flowers which exude sap when cut, like poppies and balloon flowers,
should have the stems seared immediately after cutting by holding
the cut end of the stem in a flame for a few seconds. The advice for
handling flowers with woody stems (lilac, forsythia) used to be to
crush the stems, but the latest research indicates they should be
cut at an angle, under water, the same as other flowers.
Sometimes I use a commercial floral preservative, but most of the
time I make my own vase solution. Since flowers are alive, they need
food to keep them healthy even after cutting. Vase solutions contain
sugar to help buds open and last longer, acid to improve water flow
in the stem, and a preservative to reduce bacteria and fungi growth
in the water. Here are a couple of university tested recipes:
#1 - Mix 1 part lemon-lime soda with 3 parts water and add ¼
teaspoon bleach per quart.
#2 - Mix 2 tablespoons lemon juice or bottled 'Real Lemon', 1 tablespoon
sugar, and ¼ teaspoon bleach per quart of warm water.
If you don't use a vase solution, then rinse the vase and change
the water daily. It is not recommended that you add aspirin to the
water for cut flowers. Keep arrangements out of direct sun and away
from all sources of warm, dry air. If possible move them to the coolest
part of the house at night. Disinfect your vases after each use with
one part household bleach and nine parts water.
Some easy-to-grow flowers that are good for cutting include alstroemeria,
asters, bachelor buttons, bells of Ireland, carnations, chrysanthemums,
gerbera daisies, liatris, peonies, scabiosa, sweet peas, and zinnias.
Don't hesitate to experiment with various forms of greenery from your
yard. Some long-lasting ones I have used in arrangements are asparagus
fern, side shoots from grape canes, pittosporum and the leaves of
blackberries, carrots, gerbera daisies and peonies. An exceptional,
easy-to-grow, fern for cutting is the leatherleaf fern; it will remain
in excellent condition in water for well over three weeks with little
or no special care.
Put these helpful hints to work and you'll soon be enjoying your
flower arrangements from your own garden.
July 27, 2000
Newspaper
Articles | Index to Gardening Articles
| Master Gardener Home Page