August 2003 Gardening Tips
by Thea Fiskin, Master Gardener

Stay cool in August by gardening in mornings or evenings and saving those hot afternoons for napping on the hammock in the shade. Watering is the most crucial chore and may be the difference between life and death for plants and lawns. Pay close attention to their watering needs.

WATERING: When using sprinklers, the best watering times are after ten at night and into early morning, except on really hot muggy nights (then water in early morning). Avoid watering between noon and dusk unless plants are in cool shade. Warm nights, moisture, and darkness is the perfect recipe for lawn fungal diseases, mildew, and root rots, not to mention a paradise for snails and mosquitoes. Take advantage of the occasional cool breezy night that comes between hot spells and water everything thoroughly then.
Deep water all landscape and fruit trees including citrus, cherries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, and pomegranates. You can prevent fruit split on citrus, pomegranates and tomatoes by sticking to a regular irrigation schedule. Keep water away from tree trunks and plant crowns to prevent crown rot. Give container plants some extra water as they can dry out quickly.

PLANTING: The intense heat of summer makes any transplanting risky. If you simply can't resist adding something to your garden, then plant at dusk so it has the nighttime to acclimate. Consider shading new plantings with a screen or umbrella for a few weeks to help cut down on the sun's evaporative powers and allow roots to establish.

Bulbs to plant now are autumn crocus, cyclamen, iris, watsonia, and lycoris (spider lily). August is also the time to establish the fall vegetable garden. Winter vegetables, such as beets, boy choi, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, peas and spinach can be started from seed. Include a few edible plants in your garden even if you don't have a regular garden space, your garden will taste as good as it looks. Sow seeds of annual flowers (calendulas, Iceland poppies, pansies, and snapdragons, stock) and biennials (clary sage, hollyhocks, rose campion) in flats or pots for transplanting later in the fall. Biennial seeds planted now will usually bloom next spring where in colder climates they don't bloom until their second year.

CRITTER CONTROL: When trying to get rid unwanted pests try to use the method with the least toxicity to people and pets. Always follow pesticide label instructions exactly, never use more than recommended. Store chemicals in there original containers, in a cool, dry area where children can't reach.

GARDEN CHORES:
1. Perk up summer flowers by picking wilting blooms or seed heads.
2. Pick up and discard fallen or decaying fruit. Support fruit laden limbs to prevent them from breaking.
3. Divide amaryllis, bearded iris and oriental poppies.
4. Prune apricots and olives now rather than in winter to prevent disease.
5. Snip off rosehips and spent flowers, then fertilize rose bushes to encourage a flush of color in October.
6. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, citrus and rhododendrons a final time for the year.
7. Fertilize chrysanthemums until buds begin to open. When the flower buds are first visible you can "disbud" pinching off side buds leaving one bud per stem. This will give you fewer but larger flowers.
8. Harvest herbs in the morning. Use fresh or let dry on a screen in the shade.
9. Fertilize bermuda lawns and other sun-loving plants, but wait until September to fertilize fescue lawns.
10. Toward the end of August apply a preemergent herbicide to prevent annual bluegrass during the winter. This will really prevent a lot of weeding, so give it a try.

11. Remember to pace yourself and don't overdo in the heat. Other than watering, everything else can wait until it cools down. Refresh yourself on occasion by sitting in the shade and admiring your garden.

 

July 31, 2003